Review: Workhorse Rye Virgin Cask California Rye Whiskey

View fullsize

Free sample bottle received as a gift from 3rd party.

AT A GLANCE

• Owned by: Workhorse Rye

• Distilled at: Sutherland Distilling Co. in Livermore, CA

• Still Type: Hybrid Still

• Spirit Type: Rye Whiskey

• Strength: 50% ABV

• Price: $80

In 2011, Rob Easter founded Workhouse Rye to be a “progressive and sustainable” producer of whiskey and bitters. For the past eight years Easter has operated as an itinerant distiller, renting still time and space from distilleries to ferment, distill, and mature his whiskeys. From 2012-2014, Easter was able to refined his distilling chops at Kings County Distillery in Brooklyn, New York helping to develop their award winning Peated Bourbon. Since 2014, Easter has focused on sourcing most of his grains direct from farmers who are growing non-irrigated heirloom varieties of rye, wheat, corn and barley. Hybridized and GMO grains have been designed to maximize starch production and respond positively to modern farming techniques, (irrigation, fertilizers and pesticides), the consequence however is that these plants has lost a multitude of other compounds that added flavor and depth of character when made into bread or distilled into whiskey. For Easter, he has to use more than 1000 pounds of grain to make one barrel of whiskey, but he believes that despite the lower yield, these grains result in a better spirit that is also less taxing on the environment.

Each expression of Workhorse begins with the same mash bill of 70% west coast rye, 20% malted barley, and 10% malted wheat. The mash is fermented, pot distilled, and then filled in a variety of barrels. As the name infers, Workhorse Rye’s Virgin Cask is a Rye Whiskey as defined by the US Government because of its mash bill (min 51% Rye) how its distilled (below 80% ABV), and how it is matured (barreled below 62.5% ABV in charred new oak barrels). For this expression of Virgin Cask, it was matured for one year, and bottled at 50% ABV.

In 2019, Workhorse Rye’s Virgin Cask California Rye Whiskey earned a silver medal from the American Distilling Institute’s Judging of Craft Spirits.

TASTING NOTES

Nose: First thing you notice on the nose is a grainy sweetness that is both floral and fruity with notes of green apple, nectarine and dark chocolate cherries, under girded by soft aromas of toasted oak.

Palate: At 50% ABV the palate is pleasantly smooth and full bodied. The flavor is strong with grain and wood notes up front followed with lighter flavors of nectarine and grape skins. The palate also has a soft spice character mixed with the flavor of homemade marshmallows without the intense sweetness.

Finish: On the finish the whiskey blossoms and then gently fades with light notes of white grape juice and raspberries.

Conclusion: Workhorse Virgin Cask is a beautiful example of heirloom rye grown, distilled and matured in California. In the shadow of Mt. Diablo, this whiskey soaked in the soft cool marine air and captures a beautiful snapshot of the terrior of California. It has elements that will please both fans of traditional rye whiskey and those who love the restrained and elegant California wines.

Review: Workhorse Rye Redhorse Whiskey

View fullsize

Free sample bottle received as a gift from 3rd party.

AT A GLANCE

• Owned by: Workhorse Rye

• Distilled at: Sutherland Distilling Co. in Livermore, CA

• Still Type: Hybrid Still

• Spirit Type: Whiskey distilled from Rye

• Strength: 60% ABV

• Price: ~$35 (200ml)

In 2011, Rob Easter founded Workhouse Rye to be a “progressive and sustainable” producer of whiskey and bitters. For the past eight years Easter has operated as an itinerant distiller, renting still time and space from distilleries to ferment, distill, and mature his whiskeys. From 2012-2014, Easter was able to refined his distilling chops at Kings County Distillery in Brooklyn, New York helping to develop their award winning Peated Bourbon. Since 2014, Easter has focused on sourcing most of his grains direct from farmer who are growing non-irrigated heirloom varieties of rye, wheat, corn and barley. Hybridized and GMO grains have been designed to maximize starch production and respond positively to modern farming techniques, (irrigation, fertilizers and pesticides), the consequence however is that these plants has lost a multitude of other compounds that added flavor and depth of character when made into bread or distilled into whiskey. For Easter, he has to use more than 1000 pounds of grain to make one barrel of whiskey, but he believes that despite the lower yield, these grains result in a better spirit that is also less taxing on the environment.

Each expression of Workhorse begins with the same mash bill of 70% west coast rye, 20% malted barley, and 10% malted wheat. The mash is fermented, pot distilled, and then filled in a variety of barrels. US labeling laws for rye whiskey require the spirit to be aged in charred new oak barrels, but because Redhorse matures in used wine barrels, it is just labeled whiskey. For this particular bottling, Easter aged the whiskey for two years in used Broc Cellers Syrah casks before being bottled at 60% ABV.

TASTING NOTES

Nose: On the nose there are fantastic aromas of a nutty Manzanilla sherry intermixed with notes of dried dates, raisins and prunes compote cooked with cinnamon sticks. As the whiskey breaths aromas of dark cherries and chocolate strawberries start to break through.

Palate: On the palate the whiskey is intense with big flavors of cinnamon spice, dried fruit and hazelnuts. With a little water the flavor broadens and opens with more oak notes from the barrel and a touch of milk chocolate.

Finish: The finish lingers with notes of roasted nuts, baked apples and a touch of orange blossom honey.

Conclusion: Redhorse Whiskey is an intense and decadent whiskey that should be sipped over a large ice cube or used to make a fantastic Manhattan. Drinkers who like nutty sherries should search this out and sip judiciously.

Review: Workhorse Rye Palehorse Whiskey

View fullsize

Free sample bottle received as a gift from 3rd party.

AT A GLANCE

• Owned by: Workhorse Rye

• Distilled at: Sutherland Distilling Co. in Livermore, CA

• Still Type: Hybrid Still

• Spirit Type: Whiskey distilled from Rye

• Strength: 55% ABV

• Price: ~$35 (200ml)

In 2011, Rob Easter founded Workhouse Rye to be a “progressive and sustainable” producer of whiskey and bitters. For the past eight years Easter has operated as an itinerant distiller, renting still time and space from distilleries to ferment, distill, and mature his whiskeys. From 2012-2014, Easter was able to refined his distilling chops at Kings County Distillery in Brooklyn, New York helping to develop their award winning Peated Bourbon. Since 2014, Easter has focused on sourcing most of his grains direct from farmer who are growing non-irrigated heirloom varieties of rye, wheat, corn and barley. Hybridized and GMO grains have been designed to maximize starch production and respond positively to modern farming techniques, (irrigation, fertilizers and pesticides), the consequence however is that these plants has lost a multitude of other compounds that added flavor and depth of character when made into bread or distilled into whiskey. For Easter, he has to use more than 1000 pounds of grain to make one barrel of whiskey, but he believes that despite the lower yield, these grains result in a better spirit that is also less taxing on the environment.

Each expression of Workhorse begins with the same mash bill of 70% west coast rye, 20% malted barley, and 10% malted wheat. The mash is fermented, pot distilled, and then filled in a variety of barrels. US labeling laws for rye whiskey require the spirit to be aged in charred new oak barrels, but because Palehorse matures for a year in used whiskey barrels, it is just labeled whiskey. The used barrels and shorter maturation period also explains why Palehorse has a nice light straw color.

In 2019, Palehorse Whiskey earned a bronze medal from the American Distilling Institute’s Judging of Craft Spirits.

TASTING NOTES

Nose: The aroma is round and inviting like freshly baked bread with a touch of yeastiness and salty air.

Palate: A little heat from the higher ABV but there is an immediate sweetness like biting into a ripe plum that still has a little bit of tannins in the skins.

Finish: The finish lingers with note of malted chocolate, plum skins, stone fruit and a touch buckwheat which slowly evolves and fades into soft notes of oak.

Conclusion: Palehorse Whiskey is very good however, those looking for a powerful rye whiskey like those coming out of Kentucky or Indiana will be disappointed. Palehorse is a delicious dram that should be tried by those who like soft grain forward whiskies like those from the lowlands of Scotland or Japan. Other than drinking neat or with a little water, I would pick delicate cocktails like a short whiskey soda or whiskey sour with fresh lemon juice. Overall, this a very beautiful whiskey.

EZdrinking Top 10 Whiskies of 2017

Happy New Year! 2017 was a banner year for me. I was commissioned to write a book about bourbon called The Bourbon Bible which will be published in May 2018, and because of the book and my other spirit reviews, I tasted well over 120 whiskies in 2017. With all of these under my belt I felt like a top 10 list was in order. Now not all of these were newly released in 2017 but for many, it was my first time drinking them.

10. J&B Rare Blended Scotch Whisky

J&B Rare Blended Scotch Whisky is a great value blend that is a little too sharp to drink neat but works great on the rocks, or in a highball. Check this out of you are looking for a good blended Scotch with a bit more smoke and malt character then Johnnie Walker Red Label.

9. George Dickel Classic No.8 Sour Mash Tennessee Whiskey

George Dickel Classic No.8 Sour Mash Tennessee Whiskey has nice notes of apple cider and pear with a light aroma of caramel and oak lingering in the background. The finish is soft sweet and lingers with long notes of caramel, cinnamon, oak and pear. This is a very nice light flavor Whiskey that is slightly sweet and fruity. Excellent neat and works great in a tall refreshing cocktails.

8. Wyoming Whiskey Small Batch Bourbon Whiskey

Wyoming Whiskey Small Batch Bourbon Whiskey has rich notes of caramel, oak, and cinnamon followed by flavors of plums, and peaches. After swallowing, the whiskey is sightly warm in the mouth with a lingering note of stone fruit and vanilla. This is a very fine example of a craft bourbon that should be drunk neat or used in a cocktail.

7. Nelson's First 108 Tennessee Whiskey

Nelson's First 108 Tennessee Whiskey is a special release from the first 108, 30-gallon barrels of their self-distilled and aged spirit. The whiskey is incredibly complex with notes of caramel, vanilla, raisin, prunes, nutmeg, cocoa, tobacco, and rich black earth. This is a complex and interesting Tennessee Whisky that shows incredibly promise for the whiskeys that are likely to come from Nelson's Green Brier.

6. Waitsburg Cask Strength Bourbon Whiskey

Waitsburg Cask Strength Bourbon Whiskey is an aromatic and flavorful bourbon with notes of cinnamon, nutmeg, creme brulee, and rum raisin followed by a touch of oak for balance. Overall this is a big sweet bourbon that is completely drinkable at 58% ABV and definitely a whiskey for those who like sweeter bourbons.

5. Joseph Magnus Straight Bourbon Whiskey

Joseph Magnus Straight Bourbon Whiskey envelops you with deep and complex notes of fruit cake, dried fruit, baking spice, candied orange peel, dark cherries and raisin balanced by tobacco, leather and oak. This is a really fantastic and well balanced bourbon.

4. Johnnie Walker Wine Cask

Johnnie Walker Wine Cask is a really fruity and approachable expression of Johnnie Walker and is a really nice addition to the traditional lineup. This whisky also demonstrates how much character can come through the cask selection. For less than $30 this is a deal.

3. Garrison Brothers Single Barrel Texas Straight Bourbon Whiskey

Garrison Brothers Single Barrel Texas Straight Bourbon Whiskey has rich notes with dark aromas of vanilla, dried fruit, and tobacco, balanced with nice wood notes of cedar and oak accompanies by hints of smoke and dark chocolate. This is an excellent bourbon especially at only 3 years old. It is rich in flavor, incredibly smooth at 94 proof and well worth the investment if you are looking to splurge a little.

2.Elijah Craig Single Barrel Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey Aged 23 Years

Elijah Craig Single Barrel Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey Aged 23 Years is incredibly rich and concentrated with notes of dried fruit, rum raisin, cherries, plum, baking spice, vanilla and caramel, followed by a light bright note of alcohol. This is a rich and decadent bourbon that is both very sweet and well balanced with dryness from the oak. Definitely drink this neat and savory the rich complexity that comes from 23 years of developing and concentrating flavor in a an oak barrel.

1. Kings County Bottled in Bond Straight Bourbon Whiskey

Kings County Bottled in Bond Straight Bourbon Whiskey is rich and decadent with notes of fig, dried fruit, caramel, vanilla and baking spice. the whiskey very smooth with a medium body and slightly sweet on the palate. The finish is long and dry though there is a sense of sweetness from the lingering flavor of vanilla that is intermixed with oak and tobacco. This is a very complex bourbon that is packed full of flavor. Kings County had come into their own and are no longer dominated by small barrel flavors. Drink neat to experience all it's flavor and intensity, or add a little water to soften the alcohol slightly.

Review: Shots of Knowledge The Science of Whiskey

View fullsize

Free review copy provided by the publisher.

Rob Arnold and Eric Simanek, Shots of Knowledge: The Science of Whiskey, (Fort Worth: TCU Press, 2016), 160 pages, $35.00. ISBN: 9780875656540

Rob Arnold and Eric Simanek are the authors of Shots of Knowledge: The Science of Whiskey. Arnold was born in Louisville and is the third generation of his family to be in the whiskey business. He is the head distiller at Firestone & Robertson Distilling Company and a Ph.D. candidate in plant breeding at Texas A&M University. Simanek is the Robert E. Welch Professor of Chemistry, Chair of the Department of Chemistry and Biochemistry at Texas Christian University and the director of the TCU IdeaFactory. Arnold and Simanek divided 58 essays on the science of whiskey into three parts: “From Sunshine to Sugar” describes how water, light and CO2 combine to form the essential structures of various cereal grains. Part 2, “From Wee Beasties to White Dogs,” covers the science of yeast, mashing, fermentation and distillation. And lastly, “From Barrel to Brain” follows the whiskey through maturation to ingestion.

Shots of Knowledge is an excellent coffee-table book for your home or a distillery tasting room. Each of the 58 essays is one page with an accompanying photograph or illustration. In the margins, Arnold and Simanek also include short snippets of information that build on the central theme of each essay. Both authors have significant scientific training to write authoritatively about the chemical and biological processes that convert grain, yeast and water into whiskey. While the essays are very specific about the science involved, they are short enough to not overwhelm. Shots of Knowledge makes a great coffee-table book since each essay stands alone and the illustrations are engaging. Arnold and Simanek have produced a book that will interest both consumers and distillers who want to better understand the science of whiskey.

First appeared in Distiller. (Summer 2017): 167