Distilling Outside the Box: How Malted Rye effects the flavor of Rye Whiskey

If you were to ask a fan of American whiskey to describe the flavor of rye whiskey the first and maybe only descriptor would be spicy. This singular description is largely due to the dominance of both the Kentucky style ryes (51% rye) and the Ross & Squib (MGP) style ryes (95% rye) both of which only use un-malted or raw rye grain. So, if you are only used to drinking these ryes, your first exposure to malted rye in whiskey may not be a pleasant one because the flavors can be so different and outside of the norm for those styles. In general, distillers that use malted rye in their mash will have some grassy, herbal, and sometimes bready notes in their whiskey. In my experience if you are prepared for this, it is easier to actually enjoy the whiskey for what it is. Malted rye opens another dimension of complexity that ryes that only use raw grain can never achieve. So, if you would like to taste how malted rye impacts the flavor of the whiskey, below are four that I highly recommend exploring.

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Sample bottle provided by Mountain Laurel Spirits

Mountain Laurel Spirits

Dad’s Hat Pensylvania Straight Rye Whiskey 47.5% ABV, MSRP $50

Herman Mihalich and John Cooper founded Mountain Laurel Spirits in 2011 with the singular goal of making Pennsylvania rye whiskey. Mihalich and Cooper named the brand in memory of Mihalich’s dad who always wore a hat when he left the house and particularly like Stetson fedoras made in Philadelphia. Dad’s Hat has earned a lot of attention for their whiskeys and in 2015, Whiskey Advocate named their Classic Rye its Craft Whiskey of the Year.

They source much of their grain from local farmers and their mash includes a mixture of 80% rye, 15% malted barley, and 5% malted rye. After fermentation, they double distilled the mash and mature the spirit in charred new oak barrels. Their straight rye is aged for a minimum of four years and bottled at 47.5% ABV.

The whiskey has an inviting aroma of fresh baked rye bread, molasses, a light grassy note from the malted rye, and just a hint of licorice. On the palate similar flavors carry over onto the tongue with notes of toasted rye bread spread with a thin layer of salted butter, followed by tobacco, dried peach, cherry, a hint of caramel and a pleasant grassy character. The whiskey has a long and warm finish that lingers with notes of fennel, rye, dried mint, and stone fruit. Dad's Hat Straight Rye is a delicious whiskey that is a great example of both Pennsylvania rye and judicious use of malted rye which adds a lot of complexity.

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Sample bottle provided by Coppersea Distilling

Coppersea Distilling

Bonticou Crag Straight Rye Malt Whisky Bottled in Bond 50% ABV, MSRP $118

Michael Kinstlick and Angus MacDonald founded Coppersea Distilling in 2012 with the vision of creating whiskeys as they were in the 18th and 19th Centuries before industrialization. MacDonald has since passed away but their distiller Christopher Williams carries on this ethos. He developed a system of floor malting their own grain, which in the 21st Century was almost a completely lost art. They even source their barrels from a local cooper who makes them from New York oak.

Coppersea works with local farmers to grow their grains, and Williams floor malts the rye before it is fermented and double distilled in direct fire copper pots stills. The spirit is then aged in new charred oak barrels for a minimum of four years and bottled at 50% ABV.

The nose is jam packed full of aromas of stone fruit, caramel brittle, vanilla, live oak, and fresh cut grass. On the palate there are flavors of fennel, salted caramel, vanilla, raisins, sweet cherries, dried pineapple, peaches and cream, maple syrup and sassafras, followed by a pronounced dryness from the oak tannins. Bonticou Crag is a beautiful voyage of flavor that deserves to be sipped neat or opened with just a splash of water. If you are a fan of complex whiskeys this is a must.

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Sample bottle provided by Mingo Creek Craft Distillers

Liberty Pole Spirits

Pennsylvania Straight Rye Whiskey 46% ABV, MSRP $47

Jim Hough and his wife Ellen founded Mingo Creek Craft Distillers in May 2016, and their son Kevin joined them a few months later working as the head distiller. The distillery gets its name from the Mingo Creek Society that gathered in 1794 to protest the first whiskey excised tax enacted by the US Government. One of their forms of protest were to plant liberty polls which were simple polls tied three strips of cloth that read No Excise Tax.

In their memory, the Hough’s make several whiskeys including two standard ryes which are both distilled from a mash of 61% rye, 13% red winter wheat, 13% malted rye, and 13% six-row distiller’s malt. Their Pennsylvania straight rye is double distilled, and aged in 53 gallon charred new oak barrels for a minimum of two years.

The whiskey has a lovely nose of warm rye bread, fennel, mint, green apple, and caramel. The first sip is very warm on the palate, but it gets softer with each successive drink. There are flavors of oak intermixed with strong rye bread flavors, softened with a touch of honey orange blossom. The finish is bright and lively with notes of menthol, fresh cherries and freshly made lemonade followed by a healthy dose of brown sugar. This is a very tasty rye whiskey with lots of rye character mixed with sweeter fruit notes that are well-balanced with oak. Liberty Pole rye is a must try.

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Sample bottle provided by Disobedient Spirits

Disobedient Spirits

1794 Rye Whiskey 45% ABV, MRSP $60

In 2012, Bob Begg a recently retired teacher from the Indiana University of Pennsylvania and his friend and fellow winemaker Bob Sechrist founded Disobedient Spirits. They began building their distillery the following year and opened to the public in December 2014. Today they produce a wide variety of spirits including several vodkas, gin, rum, brandy, and a few different whiskeys.

Their rye whiskey is distilled from a mash of rye grown in the Monongahela valley, along with malted rye, corn, and chocolate malted barley, and then aged for just three months in small barrels.

The aroma is savory with strong notes of rye grain, wasabi paste, oak leaves, and hint of molasses. On the palate the whiskey has strong grassy flavors from the malted rye mixed with pleasant notes of milk chocolate, that is like drinking a warm cup of hot coco in a pine forest, or enjoying a mug or Mexican chocolate with cinnamon. The finish is light with a bright mint chocolate flavor, and dry oak. At just 3 months old the whiskey is grain forward and Disobedient has done an excellent job with it. And if the idea of cinnamon chocolate in your whiskey without any artificial flavors or sweetness excites you, look for it.

How Old Overholt went from a Leading Brand to Bottom Shelf and Back

Old Overholt labesl from 2012-2023

When Abraham Overholt died in 1870, his company A. Overholt & Co. was well on its way to becoming one of the largest whiskey distillers in the country. Originally, the company branded its whiskey as Old Farm Pure Rye, but in 1888, 18 years after Abraham’s death, they renamed the brand Old Overholt and added his likeness to the logo in his honor. Up until Prohibition the distillery remained largely under family control but when Henry Clay Frick, the last remaining family member passed away in 1919 he left his ownership stake in the distillery to his friend and banking magnate Andrew Mellon. The following year President Harding selected Mellon to be his Secretary of the Treasury, and after a public pressure campaign Mellon sold the distillery to the New York grocers Park & Tilford. But before that, Mellon helped A. Overholt & Co. secure one of the very limited distilling licenses that allowed the company to continue producing “medicinal whiskey” throughout Prohibition. Because of this, Overholt survived while many other distilleries of that era closed, never to reopen.

After Prohibition, a new conglomerate called National Distillers purchased Overholt and continued making its eponymous whiskey at the A. Overholt Distillery in Broad Ford, PA. Old Overholt became one of the five core brands for National Distillers along with Old Taylor, Old Granddad, Old Crow, and Mount Vernon, a straight rye from Maryland. But, despite the post WWII economic boom rye whiskey sales were beginning to slow and in 1951, National Distillers closed the Broad Ford distillery though they continued to source Pennsylvania rye whiskey for the brand. As the years passed on and whiskey sales continued to slump into the 1980s, National Distillers eventually went broke and in 1987, the James B. Beam Distilling Company purchased Old Overholt, Old Crow, Old Granddad and Olt Taylor (which they eventually sold to Sazerac). At that point Beam decided to move production of Old Overholt from Pennsylvania to Kentucky, changed the mash bill to the minimum 51% rye and drop the bottling strength to 80 proof.

For about 27 years Old Overholt sat as bottom shelf whiskey overshowed by other more popular whiskeys in the Beam portfolio. In 2012, Beam dropped the 4 year aged statement down to 3, just as they had done with Old Corw. But, in 2013, something changed and Beam attempted to bring more attention to Old Overholt and its other “Old” whiskey brands, Old Crow, and Old Granddad. At that time nothing had substantially changed but in 2017, the now Beam Suntory began to get label approval for several new Old Overholt expressions. For the first time in about 30 years, Beam Suntory re-released a bonded version of Old Overholt which cause quite a buzz among whiskey writes and bartenders. And, two years later in 2019, Beam Suntory increased the standard bottling strength from 40% to 43% ABV. From then on there has been a steady release of new Old Overholt expressions which has helped to revitalize the brand from its bottom shelf ignominy to a brand that is once again well respected and sought after by American whiskey fans. It has been exciting to see Beam Suntory put some money and effort into supporting this historic brand by creating new and interesting offerings such as the return of the 4-year age statement on the standard bottle, the 11 Year Old Cask Strength, and the A. Overholt Straight Rye made with a traditional Pennsylvania rye whiskey mash bill. Hopefully this trend will continue and who knows what we will see in the future for this more than 200-year-old brand.

Below is a list of the Old Overholt label approvals that help tell the story of how Old Overholt moved from the bottom shelf to a well-respected brand.

• August 2012: Old Overholt Straight Rye Whiskey 40% ABV Three Years Old

• August 2017: Old Overholt Bonded Straight Rye Whiskey

• August 2019: Old Overholt Straight Rye Whiskey 43% ABV (still 3 years old)

• August 2019: Old Overholt Bottled-in-Bond Straight Rye Whiskey (new wording)

• March 2020: Old Overholt Straight Rye Whiskey 114 Proof 4 Year Special Release

• April 2020: Old Overholt Straight Rye Whiskey 11 Year 46.3% ABV

• November 2020: Old Overholt Straight Rye Whiskey 114 Proof Aged 4 Years

• October 2021: Old Overholt Straight Rye Whiskey Aged 4 Years 43% ABV

• April 2022: A. Overholt Straight Rye Whiskey Aged 4 Years 47.5% ABV

• April 2023: Old Overholt Cask Strength Straight Rye Whiskey Aged 10 Years

• September 2023: Old Overholt Cask Strength Straight Rye Whiskey Aged 11 Years

Four of the Best Aged Rums being made in the United States

American rum is going through a bit of a renaissance and there are a growing number of high-quality aged rums being distilled right here in the US. Overall rum is the US’ fourth favorite spirit after vodka, whiskey, and tequila. According to the Distilled Spirits Council in 2023 about 57% of all rum sales were flavored or spiced and the top five brand made up about 77% of the US rum market. However, 10 years ago, the top brands made up more than 80% of the market which tells me that more people are slowly starting to shift their buying habits away from Bacardi and Captain Morgan towards more interesting rums.

If you are a dedicated rum fan or just looking to explore the rum world beyond the five major brands, here are four of the best aged rums being made in the US. And while there are many others, this is a good place to start.

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Bottle purchased at retail by EZdrinking.

Oxbow Rum Distillery

Barrel Aged Straight Rum 47.5% ABV, MSRP $40

Oxbow is one of a very small number of truly estate-distilled rums. This means that they control the entire process from planting the sugar cane in their rich Louisiana soil, to the processing of their own grade A molasses, and on to fermentation, distilling, aging and bottling.

Their barrel aged straight rum is aged for a minimum of two years in new charred oak barrels which helps to give it great depth and complexity. The run is a symphony of flavors with notes of dried fruit, baking spices, oak, vanilla and a very subtle perception of sweetness. Unlike some other rums this has absolutely zero sugar added after distillation and bottling. All of the perceived sweetness comes from their high-quality molasses and patient maturation in oak.

Oxbow has not taken any shortcuts with this rum and if you are looking for a new aged rum to enjoy or you are a fan of brandies such as cognac or armagnac there is a very good chance you will love this too. Enjoy Oxbow’s aged rum on neat, on the rocks or in your favorite rum cocktail.

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Bottle purchased at retail by EZdrinking.

Roulaison Distilling Co

Barrel Aged Reserve Rum 47% ABV, MSRP $40

Andrew Lohfeld and Patrick Hernandez founded Roulaison Distilling Co in 2016 as a tribute to the long history and culture of cane cultivation and rum making in Louisiana. Roulaison is a French term that refers to the cane harvest season that in Louisiana can span from September to January.

The rum starts with 100% Louisiana grade B molasses which is fermented in separate batches with two different yeast strains to create two distinct marks (rum bases that can be blended later to create a more complex flavor). The washes are then double pot distilled and some is then matured in used oak barrels at or below 110 proof. After about 3 years of aging, barrels of their rum marks are blended and their Barrel Aged Reserve rum is bottled at 47% ABV.

The rum is complex from the first aroma all the way through to the finish. The spirit and oak have combined to create a new unique whole that is greater than the sum of its parts with sweet notes of creme brulee, followed with floral notes, bright citrus, oak and a resonate earthiness.

If you enjoy higher proof spirits you can definitely enjoy this neat, but with a healthy splash of water the flavors widen and allow you more time to enjoy them. Roulaison’s Barrel Aged rum will also work nicely in cocktails such as a rum negroni, rum flip or a Test Pilot.

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Sample bottle provided by Maggie’s Farm Rum

Maggie’s Farm Rum

Queen’s Share Rum 57% ABV, MSRP $65

While Pittsburgh is not the most obvious location for a rum distillery, Maggie’s Farm has been distilling great spirits in the Steel City for more than a decade. All their rums begin by fermenting and pot distilling a wash of turbinado sugar. The Queen’s Share is made by collecting all of the tails from their regular runs until they have enough to redistill one more time. This oily spirit is then aged in oak barrels until it is ready and bottled at cask strength.

The rum is slightly coy with a light aroma of toasted oak, vanilla, and orange zest. However, on the palate there is an explosion of flavor with deep notes of leather, caramel, orange oil and baking spices. Overall, their Queen’s share is rich with an almost oily texture that makes it a truly regal spirit.

Enjoy this slowly either neat or with a small dash of water. But if you were to use it in a cocktail the Corn n' Oil is an obvious choice.

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Sample bottle provided by South Hollow Spirits

South Hollow Spirits

Twenty Boat Cask Finished Reserve Rum 42.5% ABV, MSRP $100

Founded in 2012, South Hollow Spirits is the first legal distillery on Cape Cod since prohibition. The name Twenty Boat comes from an incident in 1930 when 20 police and Coast Guard boats were dispatched to apprehend a bootlegger who evaded capture during a sting where 250 gallons of rum were confiscated and 10 other men arrested.

Twenty Boat rums begin by making a couple different marks by separately fermenting and distilling washes made from molasses and evaporated cane juice. After being double distilled in their 250-gallon pot still the marks are matured between two and three years in used chardonnay and ex-whiskey barrels. For the Reserve Rum a blend of their marks is selected and then finished in white or red port barrels to add complexity and a light sweetness.

Twenty Boat Reserve Rum is an elegant spirit that is simultaneously light in body but full of deep and dark flavors. The rum is packed full of dark and dried fruits, molasses, baking spices, roasted nuts and rounded out with a light oak character.

At 42.5% ABV this Reserve Rum dances across the tongue like sugar-plum fairies. The elements of oak and spirit are well integrated and it would not surprise me if South Hollow Spirits was using the French style of slow reduction, where the spirit is brought down to bottling strength over weeks or months rather than in a single day. This is definitely a rum to enjoy neat or with just a drop of water to further explore the depts of its flavor.

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Honorable Mention

Two of the earliest new American rum distilleries to launch at the beginning of the Craft Distillery boom were Privateer Rum in Ipswich, Massachusetts and Richland Rum in Brunswick, Georgia. Privateer sought to revive the long tradition of rum distilling in New England and Richland was the first estate rum produced in US in the 21st Century.

Privateer starts with grade A molasses imported from Guatemala which is fermented with their own special blend of yeasts. After fermentation the wash is first pot distilled and then distilled a second time in their hybrid still which allows them to engage or disengage plates in an attached column so they can create rums with varying levels of intensity which they can later blend or age to create their different rum profiles. If you are new to Privateer, try their New England Reserve Rum or their Bottled in Bond Rum.

Richland Rum grows their own sugar cane on the southeastern coast of Georgia. The cane is harvested, pressed and then lightly cooked into a cane syrup which removes some of the excess water, concentrates the cane flavors and creates new flavors from the caramelization process. The cane syrup is fermented and then double pot distilled. Their aged rums start out in toasted and then charred new oak barrels and are usually matured between four and five years for their “Classic” expression. While Richland now offers a variety of cask strength and finished rums, if you are new to their style start with their Classic Single Barrel Select Rum.